Wednesday, 16 March 2016

The Moravian Correspondent

Issue 7 of The Northern Correspondent is out; it's a tremendous read for £5. I'm not just saying it because this tribute to Pavel Srnicek is included, but I'm glad it has appeared in print -:


It’s debatable when the post-Christmas depression really starts to cut in. For me, never has this inevitable dampening of the spirit been more pronounced than Tuesday December 29th 2015, when news came of the death of former Newcastle United goalkeeper Pavel Srníček. While I love football, I despise with a passion the simplistic narrative that defines the region and population as an aggregation of sport obsessed hedonists. However Pav was a super fit, teetotaller and non-smoker aged only 47; a universally admired and fondly recalled hero among the whole populace, thus his loss was all the more profound. While he was born and died in his home town of Ostrava, a former mining stronghold in the Moravian region of the Czech Republic, there is no denying Pavel Srníček was an adopted Geordie.

The iconic photograph of Srníček’s time on Tyneside shows him on the pitch at St. James’ Park in May 1993, celebrating promotion after a 7-1 thrashing of Leicester City. He’s applauding the sell-out crowd, attired in a grey t-shirt, emblazoned with PAVEL IS A GEORDIE in emphatic capitals, showing just how far he’d come since he arrived on Tyneside two years earlier when the Magpies were in the doldrums. Within a year Kevin Keegan returned as Newcastle manager to assemble a supremely talented team that won an immediate promotion, followed by 3 beguiling attempts at Premier League glory, each failure more agonising than the previous. After Keegan there was the dull fare of Kenny Dalglish and the sporting equivalent of the Emperor’s New Clothes under Ruud Gullit, with Pav quietly exiting the club after 7 years in summer 98.

This does not tell the full story of Srníček’s popularity with the SJP crowd. Certainly at first, he was erratic to say the least; nervous, unable to speak the language and appearing in an awful team, but Srníček understood. He saw the importance of the club to the region and the responsibility being a player entailed. He buckled down, grafted hard, became recognised as a consummate professional and highly popular figure in the changing room and on the terraces. In life, as in death, nobody ever had a bad word to say about Pav.

Following 8 years away from Tyneside, Pav was to make one further appearance for Newcastle, having returned to the club amidst an injury crisis in late 2006. Two days before Christmas, with the team easing to a 3-1 win over Spurs, Pav was called from the bench in the 87th minute, receiving a tumultuous reception from the 52,000 crowd as, aged almost 39, he rolled back the years and saw the game through. He stayed with the club until the end of the season, and then retired. The tributes from that time were as warm and fulsome as the grief-streaked words following his tragic and untimely death. While Pav left the north east public in no doubt their love was requited, I had learned first-hand how his fellow Ostravans all seemingly held Newcastle to their hearts as well.

In 1999, I moved to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, on a two year contract to teach English. Like Pav back in 91, I was a goalkeeper with no knowledge of the language of my new home; however that didn’t matter in my job, nor when I signed for the ex-pat team Bratislava Academicals. During my 2 years by the Danube, I sought not to view my job as a way of filling in the time between weekends away in Prague, Budapest or Vienna, but as a means to rediscover stability and a sense of purpose. Travel didn’t broaden my mind, watching and playing football, or talking about it in the pub did. Returning as a quasi-tourist for each of the next 5 summers, I saw what I hadn’t in terms of culture and architecture, travelling by train from a Bratislava base to those places I ought to have visited first time around, with football the torch that guided me through Slovak, and Czech, life, which is how I found myself in Ostrava.

Arriving in Bratislava on Friday 1st August 2003, I find the next day I’ve the choice of attending the wedding of a dull former colleague from Wokingham to his equally tedious Slovak fiancé, or of getting away somewhere different for the night. A quick check of the Gambrinus League programme shows me Baník Ostrava are home to Slovan Liberec. Flicking through the phonebook sized railway timetable, I see there’s a direct train at 10.10, arriving at 1.37; plenty of time for the 5pm kick off. Direct trains cost more, but there’s far less chance of missing a connection or getting lost. This isn’t exactly a tourist route, so the train is near deserted.

When I arrived in Slovakia, I knew nothing detailed of the country’s history, though I soon got up to speed. Slovaks regarded Gypsies as subhuman, hated the Hungarians for 800 years of oppression and occupation, disliked the Czechs as they were atheist and liberal in outlook, rather than insular and Catholic. The Czechs seemed, or the ones I met, to be left-leaning, tolerant and pragmatic; their country consisted of two major provinces, namely Bohemia (capital Prague) and Moravia (capital Brno), with a tiny fraction of Silesia (main town Ostrava) in the latter. Unlike Slovakia, where the ultra-nationalist government had sought to make speaking Hungarian in public an arrestable offence in 1995, Czechs spoke the same language, but almost all were highly proficient in German and many had a working knowledge of English. Shame there were no polyglots to be found near the station, when my train arrived that boiling August afternoon.

In the Czech Republic, Saturday is as much of a family day as Sunday used to be here. Shops close at noon and much of the population head for the countryside in the summer and ski resorts in the winter. My hope of finding a cheap hotel near the station and grabbing a bite to eat and a shower looked a fond one as I tramped the baking pavements of deserted streets, on my way to Bazaly Stadion. When I got there, nearly 3 hours before kick-off, the place was still deserted. There was nothing for it but to go for a pint, in this case to Baníček Futbal Pub, about 50 metres from the main entrance to the ground.

Now I wasn’t brilliant with the lingo, but I knew how to order a beer; jedno pivo, prosím.  I don’t recall if it was Budvar, Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell or what, but I needed it. I got another decided I needed to eat; ďalšie pivo a jedalny listok, prosím. I was fooling nobody. There were about a dozen other customers; including a clutch of youngish lads in shorts and t-shirts, not replica shirts, playing pool. Deutsch? Asked the barman. Nie, ja som z Anglicka; nový Hrad I replied, hoping the minor differences between my pidgin Slovak and his native tongue wouldn’t prove mutually unintelligible. Geordie? he ventured. I confirmed his suspicions, at which point he smiled broadly and indicated a framed NUFC keeper jersey on the wall behind me. I’ve no idea if it was one of Pav’s, but it was the 1995/1996 design in sunburst yellow, with a Tyne Bridge motif. Turning another 90 degrees, I saw that one wall was dedicated to a mural of the famous photo of Pav on the pitch at St James. If Pav instinctively felt at home in Newcastle, then I was experiencing something similar in Ostrava.



The pool players were summoned. One lad showed me his matching tattoos of the NUFC badge and a Magpie atop each shoulder. Another was called “Beardsley,” when I asked why; they told me because he is ugly. If Pavel was an adopted Geordie, they were his relatives from the old country. The pub filled up, we drank more beer and at kick off, we entered the stadium. The crowd was sparse, the game was a turgid 1-1 draw, but those young fellas, predominantly students in their early 20s, drank and sang with me all game. Baník’s late equaliser was celebrated with a rousing chorus of We’re Geordies! We’re mental! We’re off our fucking heads!  as a precursor to more half litres of beer back in Futbal Pub. Soon I realised I needed to find a place to stay. Hotel Max was selected because it had no Prosties, which sounded like a decent recommendation to me. A couple of nightcaps in the bar, and I parted from my Czech mates.

I woke late the next day, having missed breakfast. I took a long shower and then a circuitous route to hlavne namestie for the train. I killed an hour in the station buffet with strong coffee and a plate of fried cheese and chips, before leaving, ignored, on a deserted train back east of the Morava.


Since that day, my sense of identification for Ostrava and the Czech Republic remains undimmed, unlike my contempt for the parlous state of Newcastle United. Sat contemplating the cruel injustice and bleak finality of Srníček’s early death, at his memorial service in St. Andrew’s Church (Pav was raised in a country that predominantly chose atheism as its national faith long before Stalin’s tanks arrived) in mid-January, I wondered as to the course of the lives of those lads I’d drank with that stifling August afternoon in Ostrava. One day I hope to return to that pub, that stadium and perhaps the same terrible station buffet. And I’ll come, not in mourning, but to celebrate the life of the man who linked the two cities forever.

Odpočívej v pokoji, Pavel můj přítel…


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