Monday, 11 May 2020

Craft Work

Beer, in the time of lockdown.....


If Springfield’s notoriously corrupt and evasive mayor Diamond Joe Quimby had attended an English public school, there’s little doubt he’d be the spit of Boris Johnson. Our very own priapic, platitudinous prick addressed the nation on Sunday 10th May, by means of a pre-recorded  monologue of startling vacuity that took 20 minutes to deliver the square root of fuck all, other than the important takeaway that horny handed sons of toil should henceforth get on their bikes and cycle to all manner of unsafe workplaces, putting their lives at risk to make rich people richer. Meanwhile their bosses have been granted the permission to enjoy a daily set of 18 holes with members of their Lodge from Wednesday onwards. Please bear the following in mind, if you are called back to work; section 44 of the Employment Rights Act gives you the right to walk away from unsafe work. Too many of us don’t know our rights and may need to be reminded that you should not go to work if you feel you are jeopardising your health and the safety of others. Of course, you need to cover your back if you do that, by immediately contacting your trade union. If you’re not in a union, join one now!!

Pausing briefly to acknowledge the fact that in this region, a certain subset of ageing violent heterosexual men from the skilled working classes venerate golf and Freemasonry alongside Islamophobia as part of their Authoritarian Populist weltanschauung, the different freedoms granted by the “easing” of the lockdown by the Uxbridge and Oxbridge buffoon are allocated according to the needs of capitalism and not the general good of humanity. Big business requires more profits to maintain the social hierarchy; if this means more deaths, tough. Still, at least Sean and Matty Longstaff can play headers and volleys in the garden now…

The usual Tory approach of the stick rather than a carrot, which has recently seen those lucky enough to be furloughed branded as “lazy” and “workshy” for seeking to live on 80% of their normal wage, was reinforced by Johnson’s vague and imprecise suggestion that if we all obey our lords and masters, then the pubs might open again by late July, supposing that the decent boozers haven’t all bitten the dust during this whole hideous, dystopian gap year we’re being forced to endure.


When Johnson announced the closure of all pubs on Friday 20th March, I did what every other normal person did; I went to my local. There, in the wondrous Tynemouth Lodge, surrounded by friends and acquaintances, I had my last sup of Bass to date. I’d like to say it was my last drink and that I’d embraced an abstemious lifestyle, but that would be a lie as, in common with millions of others around the country, I’ve become an avid home boozer. It’s not as if I’m one of those moralistic, ostentatious moderate social drinkers who never drink in the house, keeping only a medicinal bottle of Brandy in the sideboard for emergencies, but I normally only have a drink in the house as a final assommoir, rather than preludial draft (who on earth invented the term pre-drinking?), mainly because I like to taste the beer I buy from pubs without previous pours impeding my palate.

I love and miss certain pubs, almost as much as I love and miss my family and friends. The list is extensive and obvious: at the coast, The Tynemouth Lodge, The Enigma Tap, Flash House, Barca, not to mention half the buildings on the Fish Quay from The Low Lights along to The Wooden Dolly. In town, the likes of The Bodega, Bar Loco, The Town Wall, Head of Steam, Box Social, Crown Posada and Bridge Tavern are grievous blanks in my social world, not to mention the very best of the Ouseburn in the glorious jewels that are The Cumberland Arms and The Free Trade Inn, as well as The Punch Bowl in Jesmond and The Northumberland Hussar in Heaton. Every pub I’ve mentioned is a superb example of a quality beer bar that attracts an interesting and varied clientele that makes it a proper public house. I hope they all make it through to the other side of these insane times we’re living through.

Incidentally, if you are expecting this piece to be an informed series of reviews of different ales, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, I’ll direct you to my lad Ben’s Instagram account @PeevyTimes where he talks about beers I’ve never heard of with the kind of enthusiasm I reserve for bands from Glasgow. My intention is to give a less scholarly overview of what realistic alternatives there are to crates of Stella or bottles of San Miguel for the discerning tippler.

While there have always been quality real ale outlets selling glorious hand-pulled, unpasteurised, often unfiltered, pure and righteous beer, it is only really with the advent of craft ales that quality bottled and canned beer for off sales has become more readily available. I know that the enduring geniuses from Wylam Brewery have been knocking out bottled beer for a good decade and a half, but it seemed to be difficult to source it other than in ASDA or from the venerable, and reassuringly pricey, Rehills’ in Jesmond. However, from around 2014 or thereabouts, it became possible to source craft beer from many different sources. My initial favourite was Glug in the Grainger Market, run by Simone and Ian Clarkin who had already established a superb delicatessen Mmm. Going for train or house cans was the grown-up equivalent of visiting an alcohol-based Fenwick’s Toy Fair as, in those early days the choice was dizzying for the uninitiated, who chose their poison by either design or the blurb on the can at first, only learning the names of hops and styles of beer by the experience of blind testing. Tragically, having moved into larger premises on Grainger Street, they found it impossible to keep going. Similarly, the first Coastal bespoke deli and bottle shop, Boda Home, has recently closed its doors, while posh office The Wine Chambers has only one outlet open these days, allowing its North Shields branch to give way to the potentially more lucrative Tynemouth Front Street branch.

Thankfully, there are many options for those of us now forced to enjoy our libations in the garden or even indoors, which will hopefully explain why we’re lucky to be locked down in 2020 rather than in 2000 or 2010, as the choice, in terms of both merchants and products, was minimal back then. Personally, I’ve invested in both collection and delivery services and see the positives and drawbacks of both. My local beer shop is the incomparable Yard House, which can be found in the back room of the Post Office at 27-29 Percy Park, Tynemouth, North Shields NE30 4LT. Offering excellent service, a massive array of cans and bottles at decent prices, as well as up to 5 different taps that can fill any metrically measured container, they won’t sell you anything that isn’t in pristine condition and they’re happy to chat about beer all day long (even when there’s a massive queue extending half way down to Longsands!). You’ll see me in the queue almost every Friday afternoon. I’ve heard excellent things about NORD (167 Park View, Whitley Bay NE26 3RF), though as yet I haven’t used their services, but I’m hoping to remedy that soon as their range of beers looks beguiling. Check them out at: https://nordbottleshop.co.uk/

I know I said I’m not one to review beers, but I adore Tiny Dancer by Flash House Brewing Co, and not just because head honcho Jack O’Keefe plays for Tynemouth Bad Boys in the midweek cricket league. Truly, it is an exceptional beer among many exceptional brews they’ve produced. Sadly though, they appear to be in hibernation during the current crisis. Check out their website  for any news of future developments; http://www.flashhousebrewing.co.uk/ Meanwhile, another North Shields outfit is supplying both beer and bakery products. The hands down best new pub of the past 3 years, The Enigma Tap, situated at 60 Bedford St, North Shields NE29 0AL, is somewhere you must visit when the insanity ends. Until then, you can book a delivery on line, as I did, and receive bespoke door-to-door service for competitive prices, with free delivery over £30 and 10% of all sales donated to the Whitley Bay Food Bank. Check them out at: www.enigmatap.co.uk  I had Enigma Tap deliver me 8 cans of the finest beer of 2020; Citra Cryo IPA by Two By Two, who are unquestionably the best local brewery. The beer was stunning, as were the tap versions of Citra Cryo and Snakes Eyes IPA that I got from Yard House this weekend just gone.


I’m a little out of the loop for beer shops in town, though I will forever sing the praises of hard rock and hard cycling devotee Bruce Renwick, who turned his love of beer into the way he makes his living with the superbly stocked CentrAle in the Central Station. Bruce will always find time to enthuse about his range of produce or the Tygers of Pan Tang, not to mention absolutely castigate Mike Ashley. It’s a great shop and I’d never dream of taking a train without several samples of his exhaustive stock list by my side. We’ve mentioned Rehills of course, but one place I’ve no real knowledge of, though both Ben and my Canadian pal Dave eulogise it, is Block and Bottle just over the High Level at 14 Wellington St, Gateshead NE8 2AJ. Apparently, a new outlet is about to open in Heaton, so I’ll check it out then.

5 brilliant Tyneside Breweries:

-          Two by Two
-          Almasty
-          Flash House
-          Full Circle
-          Wylam

5 recommended Tyneside Beer Shops:

-          Yard House
-          NORD Bottle Shop
-          Enigma Tap
-          CentrAle
-          Block and Bottle


Of course, there is also the matter of buying on-line, either from stockists or by signing up for a monthly scheme. As regards the latter, I’ve used two companies, both based in Edinburgh, with varying degrees of satisfaction. I signed up to Beer 52, on the back of a promotional email, back in Summer 2017. The price was reasonable, and it came with the compulsory magazine full of adverts and packet of sunflower seeds; the only trouble was the beer was uniformly appalling, consisting of a dozen small cans of peach and rose petal flavoured lagers. Perfumed piss basically. I sent them packing until early lockdown when their email offered 12 different Irish craft beers for £25 (plus magazine and birdseed). This time the beer was wonderful, though no Helvick Gold by the magnificent Waterford based Dungarvan Brewery, so I got the next monthly case of beers from Virginia, which came with the wonderfully informative The Story of Craft Beer by Pete Brown that tells you, in a very readable way, exactly what you need to know about beer styles and the process of brewing. These ales weren’t as good, but there was no reason to cancel. Hence, I’m waiting for May’s delivery before I make a decision. The other company I went with in the past was Flavourly; price wise, they are bargain basement but, having had to work my way through 24 cans from First Chop, I have to say a load of their stuff is like the obscure brews you see for 59p a bottle in B&M or Home Bargains. Cheap, but not so cheerful I’m afraid.

Our Ben, who knows his stuff, recommends Premier Hop, especially their virtual shop on Instagram, Mikkeller for expensive imported stuff and Honestbrew for their reliability.  I’ll take his word for it, having enjoyed many fine beers in pre social distancing days. Let’s raise a glass to those days returning and to a final pair of short lists, celebrating more brilliant breweries from around the country and abroad as well.


5 fabulous English breweries:

-          Cloudwater; Manchester
-          North Brewing Co; Leeds
-          DEYA; Cheltenham
-          Kernel; London
-          Verdant; Falmouth

5 superb International breweries:

-          Lervig; Stavanger, Norway
-          Gamma; Gørløse, Denmark
-          Basqueland; Gipuzkoa, Euskal Herria
-          Whiplash; Dublin, Ireland
-          Amundsen; Oslo, Norway

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